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A pattern splurge!

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If you're following me on Facebook, you might remember me saying that I'd gone a little crazy in the pattern-buying department last week... Oh, buyer's remorse!

Well my parcel arrived today, and I'm remorseful no longer. A bunch of lovely Australian-made patterns in 36-38-40 inch bust sizes, and even some 'Pauline' patterns which I adore

I'd love to share some of my favourite ones with you!

Pauline 5299 - Lady's Slenderising Dress size 40

































I love the split neckline and waist detail on this one. Can't wait to make it up, perhaps with a contrast.

Fashion Cut Pattern 6699 - Bust 36

 































Yowza - what isn't there to love about this one?! There's so much going on here.

Pauline 5128 - 40 Bust

































Another fabulous Pauline pattern, I really love the way they used stripes on the left.

Fashion Cut Pattern - 36 Bust
 
































Buttons! Buttons on pockets!

Pauline 2042 - 40 Bust
 
































Another pattern I've been chasing in my size for years, I love the square neckline and basque.

And finally, Pauline 5424 - 40 bust

































This pattern has been on my wishlist for seven years! I'm not sure why I'm so entranced by it, but I think the shaped yoke and V-pockets are darling. Definitely making this up.

*************

I normally have a really firm budget for patterns, but I also know that I won't see these for sale again. What to do?
After thinking about it long and hard, I've decided that it's OK to break the rules for Pauline patterns.

What about you, is there something you'll break your budget rules for?

FO: Mad about Plaid - Vogue 8811, circa 1940

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Hands up who likes plaid!

































Me~!
I was so excited when I stumbled across this plaid at my local Spotlight - the combination of olive, green, beige and orange are perfection!

1940s plaid tartan dress vintage vogue 8811 plus size red head xl curvy bakelite miss l fire rosita
































Unfortunately, there was only a meter left on the roll so I had to chase down some yardage at another store further away. Definitely worth the effort.

The pattern is Vintage Vogue 8811, a very easy dress from 1940. I made View B.






















And boy, is this dress easy.
I made a muslin to check the fit of the bodice, and cut a straight 18 (bust and waist). A quick short waist adjustment, and away I went.

I feel like the colourway is striking enough that you can wear red with it, without appearing too christmassy.
A very quick sew, plus the pattern doesn't take up a lot of yardage (2.6m of 150cm wide). How adorable is the chest pocket cut on the bias?

































The Good:
- Everything? I love the drape of the skirt, the fit of the bodice, the fabric. Also, one of my best side zipper insertions.

The Bad:
- nothing

The Meh:
- I think I need to make a further short waist tuck, as it's probably still a fraction long in the torso. I can live with it though.

Mods:
- Not using shoulder pads
- Made sure the plaid didn't make a '+' shape at my bust apex (boobs) as that would look awkward.... Hello girls!

Fabric:
Poly tartan/plaid, from Spotlight.


































And that's it.
I would definitely recommend this pattern if you're 'Mad about Plaid', it's very straightforward to make and a great way to make use of the tartan pattern.

































Outfit Details:
Dress - Vogue 8811, myself
Shoes - Miss L Fire Rosita
Belt and Vintage Bag - Opshop
Bakelite Bangles - Etsy
Brooch - Etsy
Lipstick - Rouge Dior Trafalgar


Free Pattern: Fiesta Jumper, Patons Style Vol. 10, circa 1944

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I love a simple cardigan with an interesting stitch - and as a plus, this cardigan is knitted in 5-ply/sport yarn for a quicker knit!

free vintage knitting pattern 1940s 40s 36 bust wwii ww2 australia patons cardigan


































This lovely knitting pattern is from Patons and Balwins Style, Volume 10.
Have you come across Trove, the digitised collection from the National Library of Australia? It's very easy to get lost in there, reading old newspapers and finding old knitting patterns - but an overlooked resource are the advertisements.

After a bit of a search, I found a reference to an advertisement for Style Volume 10 in 'The Mercury', dated 30 May 1944. Definitely another great resource for dating your own collection!

Fiesta is knitted with a diamond pattern formed from knit and purl stitches, with a finished size of 36 inches. Pattern requires 5 ply/sport yarn, plus 3.25mm and 4mm needles.







Noontide jumper-cardigan, from Style Volume 3 circa 1930s

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I'm ever so slowly increasing my collection of Paton's Style booklets (only missing a couple now), and when I saw this pattern in my new Volume 3, I knew I had to share it with you!

free vintage knitting patterns 1930s cardigan 30s 32



































Puffed sleeves, a decorative yoke, cute collar and even mock darts!

It has so many great details, except, it's a 32 inch bust size - ouch! Well, maybe some of you petite and talented knitters will make it up - it should be a quick knit in Totem 12-ply

To fit: 32 inch bust. Knitted on 5.5mm needles, on Bulky (12ply) weight yarn.






Tutorial 3: Adding a 1940's tuck to your Smooth Sailing sleeve

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Sorry for the blog silence.
I've been busy at work and feeling so drained that I haven't had the energy to sew or knit - let alone blog.

Now I'm back on my feet it's time for another Tutorial... this time, making the Smooth Sailing blouse feel a bit more Forties by adding a sleeve tuck (like below).



And here's a close up of my version with the modified tuck sleeve.


smooth sailing blouse wearing history novelty print 1930s 1940s
Fabric is 'April Showers', by Moda

































This is a really simple way to adjust the sleeve, and it saves about 20cm on the overall yardage requirement for the pattern.

Step 1. Trace your sleeve pattern and all markings. The SS sleeve is puffed at the top, so we only need to add volume to the middle, and a tuck at the bottom.


 Draw a line from centre top to bottom.

Step 2: Add depth to the bottom (optional). I wanted an extra inch in sleeve length.






Step 3: Draw a line horizontally across the sleeve, from the armscye to armscye (widest points).
Cut up the vertical line to the top of the sleeve, stopping just before the edge.



Cut from the middle of the sleeve, along the lines to the base of the armscyes, stopping just before the edges.

Lay the pattern down, and separate the vertical split by the amount you want. I wanted 1.5 inches for a moderate tuck, but 2-3 inches would look great too.

Pin the top half of the pattern down. The cut should be making a V shape.

Step 4: Swing the bottom half of the pattern up, until the cut sides are equally opposite each other - this is the tuck.



Measure how far 'up' you moved the bottom half, and mark the distance to the centre bottom of the sleeve.

Step 5: With a curve, gently redraw the bottom of the sleeve to align with the marks you just made.


Draw around the pattern piece, and mark how high you want your pleat to be (mine was 3.5 inches, not including seam allowance).

Step 6: Done!


Just sew your pleat/tuck before adding any cuffs/hemming, press, and set it in the blouse as you would the normal sleeve.
 
1940s smooth sailing blouse novelty fabric shirt wearing history moda fabric april showers
Would you believe this is the 15th time I've sewn up this pattern?


































I hope this Tutorial proves helpful to some adventurous sewers, and I'll see you again soon!

FO: Fish Trap Tiki Dress (Design by Clothilde 3170)

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We're having some crazy hot weather at the moment (37c/98F), so it's definitely time to start sewing some summer dresses.

1950s tiki shaheen dress vintage plus size hawaiian repro

































The pattern is a 'Design by Clothilde', No 3170, purchased from CymbalineVintage on Etsy.
The original mailer was included with the date stamped 12 May 1960, don't you love that?.


































At last, another dress down from the To-Sew List...

Now, you all probably know my feelings about sewing with patterns later than the mid-1950s, but that crossed neckline really spoke to me.


































The fabric is an aboriginal design called 'Fish Traps', another Babbarra Women's Centre print from Spotlight. Thank goodness I got it for $7 a meter on sale, as this sucker took five meters! (The fabric was originally $20/m).

I think it looks really 1950s/tiki!
This one was a lot easier to pattern match than the mock-Shaheen dress I made a few months ago. Check out the pattern matching - it's definitely getting easier to match those seams!



































MODS:
  • Enlarged pattern from a size 36 bust, to a 40 bust (just added an inch to each side)
  • Added an extra dart above the bust to make the top fit really tight across my boobs.
  • Side boning
  • Changed skirt to box pleat as the original would be impossible to pattern match
  • Completely lined the bodice
  • Self fabric belt, using a belt kit
Probably one of the most important mods I made was shaping the under bust dart, so the bodice hugged my rib cage and gave me that slightly pointy 1950s look. The shaping looked like below, in red (original dart in black).

Now, I ALWAYS wear a bra. Always.
But with the extra bodice lining, side boning and shaped dart I am bra-less in all these photos.
Amazing!

I did of course sew little bra-strap clips into the bodice of the dress to attach a strapless bra, the same as my mock-Shaheen
While I'm excited about the possibility of being able to go bra-less, I do not trust this dress to continue it's support while I'm rockabilly dancing!

And that's it!
I hope all your sewing projects have been successful too!

miss l fire review 1950s tiki shaheen dress vintage plus size hawaiian repro tijuana
Outfit:


A Knitted Fairy Topper for Christmas - c.December 1952

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A knitted fairy topper for the Christmas tree instead of an angel? Why not?
(And did you know it's only 6 weeks to Christmas  - I've just had a mild panic attack thinking of all the things I need to make between now and then).

This pattern for a Christmas fairy doll comes from Needlework Illustrated December 1952, and is one of a few Xmas-themed patterns I'll be sharing between now and the 25th December.


































The fairy is knitted in 3-ply fingering weight wool, on 3.75mm needles.

The first annual Vintage Secret Santa gift exchange at Chronically Vintage

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Jessica at Chronically Vintage is running the first annual Vintage Secret Santa gift exchange - if you'd like to sign up, just visit her blog here.

vintage secret santa gift present blog chronically vintage
 I think this is such a lovely idea to meet other vintage enthusiasts.

The gift exchange is open to all vintage-lovers around the globe, with some simple rules:
  • Gifts must be to the value of $15USD
  • Gifts should be vintage, vintage reproduction, vintage inspired or vintage appropriate, handmade or similar
  • Gifts need to be send by 12 December to arrive in time for Xmas day
Thanks to Jessica for organising this, I can't wait to be a secret santa.
(And don't forget to hashtag #vintagesecretsanta)

FO: Such Flattering Puff Sleeves, c. 1938

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Wow -  a marathon 10 months of knitting, but it's finally done! And just in time for our Summer (eep).

vintage knitting jumper sweater plus size 1930s 1940s knitwear a stitch in time puff sleeves


































The pattern is 'Such Flattering Puff Sleeves', from A Stitch in Time Vol 1. The original was published in My Home, 1938.

ASIT is being re-released before the end of November, so if you missed out on getting a copy the first time head on over to Susan's website to order yours now. I cannot recommend her ASIT books enough.



































I kept falling in and out of love with this jumper - sometimes I would think the yarn wouldn't work, other times I thought I should have made it in a larger size.

It worked out perfectly in the end though.



































Yarn: Holst Garn Samarkand (wool/silk) in Cherry Red, held double throughout.
I wasn't keen on this yarn as a single strand (it's a bit rough and snaps) but held double it gives a nice firm, yet soft, fabric.

Size: Small (I wanted the ribs to be stretched out to avoid too much bulk)

Mods from Ravelry:

  • Only knitted the first 1.5 inches of the body on the smaller needles, then upsized to 3.5mm for the rest.
  • Sleeves were only knitted on 3.5mm
  • Increased body length by 1/2 inch
  • Increased sleeve cap height by 1/2 inch



































You really have to look at the original 1930's pattern to get an idea of how the sleeves will look once it's made up. They’re not 1940's sleeves that sit high on the shoulder - they’re meant to puff out more from around the arm.


If you wanted something with more of a 1940's look I would recommend increasing the amount of stitches you cast off, across the neck - and lengthening the sleeve.
Overall - pretty darn happy! Now to just finish my Giftmas knitting so I can work on the next project.



































Outfit:

Knitted Christmas Booties, Stitchcraft December 1944

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Hold onto your hats - these booties are a tad psychedelic!


Lets blame wool rationing, shall we?

These Christmas booties would make a fabulous present for someone - not to mention a great way to use up remnants of yarn.

You'll need oddments of fingering weight yarn, 4mm needles and some leather for the soles and ties.

(For size reference, the heel piece measures 6cm high along the fold line)




s



FO: A Christmas Pinny-dress, c. 1944 (Simplicity 1212)

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Ahhh.... nothing like spending a hot Aussie Xmas in a comfortable cotton dress!


































The pattern is Simplicity 1212, a pinafore-dress from 1944. Not much to look at, but very easy and very comfortable.

Photo: Vintagepatternwiki


































Did I mention the pattern has little pockets?


































The fabric is an adorable christmas border print, with 'Merry Christmas' in different languages written across the white background. I was really lucky to nab this on eBay, and had plans for a gathered skirt (similar to last year's Christmas outfit) but there was just over three yards...


































Hmm... A frantic search through my pattern collection came up with Simplicity 1212, and I was sure with some careful laying out and mods it should work.

































Mods:
  • Added half an inch to each side at the waist
  • Cut the back on a fold to elimate the facing needed (save fabric), and...
  • Added side zipper so I can get into it!
  • Shortened the length of the underbust dart to avoid pointy boobs
  • Drafted a facing for the neck instead of using bias
  • Used leftover red hem fabric on the back belt tie as I was running out of fabric
vintage 1940s shoes pinafore dress sewing pattern miss l fire norma plus size christmas novelty print dress
































Overall:
Really happy! I would definitely use this pattern again. It's very comfortable to wear and will be great for Christmas day when I'm running around cooking.

novelty print christmas border print fabric 1940s dress
































Outfit:
  • Dress - Simplicity 1212, me!
  • Shoes - Miss L Fire Norma
  • Bakelite bracelets and earring - Etsy, various
  • Bakelite brooch - GingerJindo , Etsy
  • Hairflower - Diva

Mexican Summer... (Just a quick outfit post)

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Oh my the weather is hot at the moment! And muggy too..
In the search of something to cool to wear, I found one of my favourite outfits in the back of the wardrobe.. A Mexican tourist set, made from tomato-red rayon.

mexican tourist set plus size rayon 1940s dress

































Love, love this oufit. So much so, that I had to share it with you.
Although it's quite 'blousey', the top and skirt combo is really flattering on a larger figure.
I even had vintage dealers try and buy it off my back when I was walking around a vintage fair.

If you're in Australia, I hope you managed to keep cool this weekend as well! (And if you're in the northern hemisphere, I'm very jealous of your winter right now).


Outfit:
Mexican tourist set - HipsMcGee on Etsy
Shoes - Miss L Fire Tijuana
Glasses - Long Beach, somewhere
Carved bone jewellery - Etsy

A sewing-inspired festive wreath, c. 1952

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Isn't this wreath the cutest! It's from Needlework Illustrated No.215 (Dec 1952).


































It's suggested as a way of giving the sewer in your life the gift of threads (who doesn't need more haby supplies) but I think is a great way to make a sewing inspired wreath too!

Thread the reels onto fancy cord, knot between the reels and finish with some holly trim - voila!

Vintage cheeky christmas cards - just for you! (free downloads)

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It's time to send your Christmas cards - and if you have vintage or kitsch loving friends these would be right up their alley!

 Fairly innocent on the front, right? Well, except for the card on the far right.

But have a look inside!

1940s risque christmas pinup cards sexy photos


I think the one on the left is my favourite.

To download them and make your own:
  • Right click on the image, and select 'Open in a New Tab'
  • When the image opens, either Save it, or Print picture.
  • When printing, make sure you print it to fit on a whole page or it might turn out tiny.
  • Cut around the edges, and fold down the middle. Then fold again.
  • Send to all your friends! 
 



 



Happy New Year, and a happy new cardigan!

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I hope you all had a fantastic start to 2015 - bedtime for us was 11pm, it's no secret I'm a nana!

And to celebrate the new year, how about a quick and easy 1940s cardigan in thick wool? The simple stitch would be great for a novice knitter, so if your new year's resolution was learning to knit this could be the pattern for you.

I really like the strong shoulders and nipped waist!

free vintage knitting patterns 1940s cardigan patons and baldwins





























'Belinda' comes from Patons and Baldwins No. 172, circa 1944-1945.
The yarn is Patons Bonny, a 12-ply weight (or bulky weight) yarn, and is knitted up on 5.5mm and 6.5mm needles.

Finished sizes of 34 inch and 37 inch.


Pop to Popism, Art Gallery of NSW

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Every now and then, you can find fun (and free) things to do in Sydney... very important when you're trying to save the pennies.

Last night a group of went to a talk on 1950s fashion, as part of  'Pop to Popism' at the Art Gallery of New South Wales. The exhibition is about pop-art (mid 50s to mid 70s), and is a great reason to get dressed up!

re-mix remix picasso wedges review



























Sarah Doyle (amazing vintage maven and friend) gave an interview about her wardrobe and wearing vintage everyday - something a lot of us can resonate with.

I wore Re-Mix wedges and 1950's printed dress, that looks a little bit like a Mexican handpaint. The bodice is cut on the diagonal to take advantage of the stripey pattern.

sunsurf sun surf 1940s rayon vintage shirt repro roosters cocks





















Jakk wore her (in)famous rooster shirt - a 1940s repro by SunSurf. Guys always go wild for her shirt when she wears it.

Plus - there was a band and dancing afterwards!


















































The Art Gallery has a few more talks and free events on for the duration of the exhibition, so check them out if you're nearby.

mexican handpaint dress blue plus size xl 1950s 1940s vintage skirt




























My outfit:
  • 1950's painted dress - Etsy
  • Shoes - ReMix Picasso
  • Bakelite bracelets - Etsy
  • 1950s raffia bag - DonnaLand Vintage (Viva Las Vegas 2014)
  • Lobster brooch - Williamsburg Flea Market
  • Sunglasses - Modcloth
Jakk's outfit:
  • Rooster Shirt - Sunsurf
  • Swing pants - Retrospec'd
  • Hat - Goorin Brothers
  • Sunglasses - Randolph Engineering

Have a great week!
xxx
Bex

Tell me what you'd like to see (and make)

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I love sharing vintage knitting patterns (and ephemera) - but I would love to tailor them to what you'd like to see.

Would you mind taking two seconds to vote in the below poll?


What is your preferred decade?
Are you a Gatsby fan, or a 1940's war re-enactor? Let me know which is you preferred decade and I'll try to list more patterns from that era.

Which decade do you prefer?

1920s
1930s
1940s
1950s
Poll Maker

Do you love a good twin-set, or only knit gloves?
Let me know by choosing your favorite thing to make.

What kind of vintage patterns would you like?

Cardigans
Jumpers and sweaters
Accessories (gloves, hats, scarves, etc)
Dresses and suits
Evening or fancy knits
Menswear
Childrens
polls

And finally, if I've missed something or you'd like to see more ephemera (Fashion Supplements, sewing tutorials) let me know in the comments.

Thanks for your input!
xxx

Blue Mountains Road Trip (plus sneak peeks of the Hydro Majestic)

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This weekend Jakk and I packed the car and headed on up to the Lady Luck Festival in Katoomba for some dancing and antique-ing.
3 sisters three sisters motel katoomba kitsch neon sign

While we didn't take any photos of the festival (mainly cars this year, not so much fashion) we did have a great time dancing and hanging out.

We stopped overnight in a little guesthouse in Medlow Bath, which is just down the road from the newly re-opened Hydro Majestic.

hydro majestic medlow bath vintage 1940s 1950s





























The Hydro was opened in 1904, originally as a sanitarium for the wealthy to come and bathe in the mineral springs. Unfortunately the springs dried up and the owners had to truck in mineral water from Germany!




The Hydro went through a few owners, and declined in the 1990s - it's been pretty much abandoned for the past 10 years until a new owner bought it in 2012.





























A lot of the hotel is off limits to non-guests, but we snuck around a bit, trying to look like we belonged.





























Most of the renovation has been tastefully done, but some of it was a bit over the top like the black perspex chandeliers (why??). The gardens are still lovely though.

























































And of course the amazing view never changes! Amazing waking up to that every morning.


We're hoping to come back and have High Tea for our wedding anniversary (prices start at $50 per person in case you're interested).





























Outfit:

  • Lurex top - opshop
  • Sailing ships skirt - Sail Away by Retrospec'd
  • Shoes - ReMix Vogue
  • Belt - opshop
  • Handbag - Mimco bowler
Hope you had a grand weekend too!


Poll Results, and a pattern from 1939/1940

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Well, the poll results are in!

The most popular decade voted for was the 1940s, followed by the 1950s and 1930s.
The most popular knitted item is jumpers, followed closely by cardigans.

I've had some special requests as well, so I'll do my best to find some patterns for those too.

Well, since the 1940s is so popular - here's Aileen, a jumper-cardigan (looks like a cardigan, but it's actually a jumper/sweater).

This pattern comes from Patons & Baldwins Specialty Knitting Book No.128 - printed at the start of WWII, due to the economy colouring of the booklet.

I just love that stitch pattern.






























To fit a 34 inch bust
Requires fingering weight wool, and 2.75mm and 4mm needles.





Mardi Gras, knitting-mojo and a free Pattern book for you to enjoy

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Apologies for the blog silence everyone. For the past few months I've really struggled to knit or sew anything - I'm assuming it's work-stress-related.  My mojo still isn't back yet, but fingers crossed it's soon as my queue is out of control!

Add on organising our part in the Sydney Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras and I'm just plain exhausted.

Even though I didn't ride in Dykes on Bikes this year (I was in Geelong for my Uncle's 90th birthday) Jakk did - and she had a blast riding my bike instead.
gay mardi gras sydney dykes on bikes 2015 army marine vintage motorcycle motorbike butch lesbian
Photo Credit : SBS


















Isn't she adorable? She was going for a vintage US army look this year.

In the meantime, I've been lusting over a few new patterns that you might like as well:

Mary Mead by Andi Satterland
Photo Credit: Andi Satterland




















It's vintage fabulous! Sport weight, fitted and cropped. Love it, and had to buy a copy as soon as it was released.

Vintage Vogue V9083 (circa 1951)

























  


Now, I'm not a fan of the strapless dress by itself (or the swing coat) - but that button on sailor collar just makes this dress pop.

And the new Simplicity Pattern 1155 - this is actually a repro of Simplicity 4704






























I used to own 4704 but sold it as it was too small for me to use! 
I really like the Simplicity repro (and that they styled it on a 'larger' model) but I think it needs some tweaks to make it look more like the original. Have you noticed the the straps (that go over the shoulders and under the bust) are one piece in the original, but different in the repro? It's a shame they didnt include the sleeved version too.

I bet it's a lot easier to sew than Gertie's one from Butterick (5882), as Simplicity's instructions are normally easier to follow. It would be interesting to mash the two together and take the best bits from both patterns.

And finally - I did promise you a full, complete knitting pattern booklet from 1948.






























Back in January, when I asked what patterns you would like to see, YarnForwardKnitPast said she'd love to see knitted everyday gloves.






























Well, I spent a bit of time today scanning the whole of Patons Knitting Book No. 232 into a Flickr Set for you to download and enjoy.






























This 24 page booklet is circa 1948 (advertised for sale 10 March 1948 in the Burnie Advocate), and is full of gloves and mittens for women and children.

I hope you enjoy it and, remember, if you're after something in particular let me know!
xxx
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