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FO: Everyone loves a Bad Girl! (Butterick 5895)

March 23, 2015, 2:24 am
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I feel really late to the party sewing up Butterick 5895 - better late than never though!



I normally hate sewing pants.
I mean, technically they are easy to put together but I have a heck of a time getting them to fit properly. And fitted pants? On my pear shaped booty? Hmm, they could look like a train wreck.





























The first fitting of these were cut with a waist between size 16 and 18, with the hips graded out to what would have been a size 22 (based on the finished measurements and zero ease at the hips).
Terrible!

The front and back both dipped down, and the back of my calves and knees had some shocking 'smiles' going on due to the tightness.

butterick 5895 b5895 gertie pants trousers 1950s cigarette pants plus size vintage repro xl



























After making some mods (explained below) this second pair fit like a dream. In fact - these black pair were just meant to be a muslin too, but they're perfect!



Mods:

  • No pockets, I wanted a smooth line for these
  • Taken in half an inch again at the waist
  • Curvy adjustment - that is, cut a line from the centre back seam across to the hip leaving a tiny bit attached. Hinged the top of the pants upwards (2 inches for my booty) to create extra room in the back. Did the same by 1 inch for the front for my tummy.
  • Slightly lower crotch for comfort
  • Added a bit of extra room on the inside seam of the back of the pants leg (big calves)
  • Hemmed the pants slightly lower in the back to allow for my big calves.
butterick 5895 b5895 gertie pants trousers 1950s cigarette pants plus size vintage repro xl




























Fabric: stretch chino drill.
I'd recommend something slightly heavier than the stretch cotton sateen they sell at Spotlight and Lincraft - it shows every lump and bump. I don't remember where I got the stretch chino from, but it's perfect!

Verdict: when I die, bury me in these pants. They fit perfectly and are so very comfortable, and scream 1950's bad girl. I can't wait to make an ankle length pair, and some denim ones.

butterick 5895 b5895 gertie pants trousers 1950s cigarette pants plus size vintage repro xl




























I'm very glad to be proven wrong with these pants - curvy gals, give them a go - you won't be sorry!

Outfit:
Pants - Butterick B5895
Lurex top - Review (thrifted!)
Gold flats - Asos
Bakelite - Etsy
Glitter confetti necklace - Rock and Roll Markets
Hair clip - Mimco
Lipstick - Illámasqua 'Rockabilly'

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Bad Girl goes Western - plus mods for Curvy Gals

March 28, 2015, 12:16 am
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Thanks for all the nice comments on the blog and Facebook - the BG pants are definitely getting a lot of loving, and I had to make one last pair (for the moment).

Meet the Bad Girl Western Jeans.





























My inspiration was this pattern (View 1), Advance 8341 from 1957.




















I wanted something with a slim fit, but more authentic pockets than the original Butterick 5895 version (I still think their pocket isn't the most attractive option).

western vintage jeans 1950s plus size denim bakelite candy butterick 5895





























The western pockets were VERY easy to add to the pattern, and I love them.






























The denim only has a small amount of stretch (less than stretch twill) and I think they hold their shape much better. (Denim came from Fabric Remnant Warehouse in Alexandria)






























These pants just fit in all the right places, but it wasn't always the case.
















I did warn you.

Anyway, as promised, here's what the first cut muslin of what the pants looked like in cotton stretch sateen. I'm frowning because they dip dramatically at the front (waistband not attached at this stage).






























See the blue line? That's where they should be sitting.

And now the back - much more noticeable, and the sateen makes any smile lines really stand out.






























Time for a Curvy Gal adjustment for booty or belly.

1. Figure out how much you need to raise the back (or front) to even it out to match where it sits on your hips. (Lets say 2 inches)

2. Draw a line across your pattern, about 4 inches down from the top (doesnt have to be exact, but around the middle is good).
















3.  Cut along line, from centre back seam to side seam, leaving a tiny bit attached. Hinge the top part of your pants pattern upwards, the amount you measured before (the 2 inches).
















4. Fill in that new gap with paper, retrace and you have a new piece that will actually meet your waist.

















Yes, it's really that easy.

I hope the booty and belly mod helps some of you! If you get stuck, let me know.
xxx
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My vintage brooch collection

April 6, 2015, 5:16 pm
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I have a secret to share - besides collecting vintage knitting and sewing patterns, I also collect brooches!

1940s lucite novelty brooch celluloid monogram sweetheart jewellery jewelry




























They're mainly from the 1930s-1950s, but there's a few modern ones in there as well.

1940s lucite novelty bakelite cherry brooch celluloid monogram sweetheart jewellery jewelry





























I have a couple of passions, one for 1940s carved lucite brooches - case in point: lobsters and crabs oh my!

1940s lucite novelty brooch crab lobster celluloid monogram sweetheart jewellery jewelry






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My latest prize is a carved lucite safety pin brooch, with diamante detail:

1940s lucite novelty brooch celluloid monogram sweetheart jewellery jewelry
Monogram brooches - Bs and Rs:

1940s lucite novelty brooch celluloid monogram sweetheart jewellery jewelry

Scottie dogs and sweetheart brooches:

1940s lucite novelty brooch celluloid lobster plastic sweetheart jewellery jewelry






















The 1940's beaded dangle brooch below was a present from Jakk and my first real novelty brooch. I blame her for my collecting bug.

1940s lucite novelty brooch celluloid plastic sweetheart jewellery jewelry

Cowboy brooches,  Niello (Siam) silver and celluloid:

1940s lucite novelty brooch celluloid cowboy sweetheart jewellery jewelry




















I store all my brooches (80+) on some white picture frames from IKEA - cover the backing board in wadding and fabric, and they're a cheap and easy storage solution.

It's hard to pick a favourite, but if I could only take one brooch with me I think it would be the lucite crab (another present from Jakk). It's just so silly, and it makes me smile when I catch a glimpse of it in a reflection.

haskell 1940s lucite novelty brooch crab

Novelty brooches are pretty hard to come by in Australia (about 90% of these came from the USA) but you can find them if you look hard.

Do you collect anything a bit different? I'd love to see photos!

Edited to add - OK, I also collect Australian Lustrewear! Maybe I have a problem...

1940s 1950s lustreware fish vases kitsch australiana pates mingay

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Cute as a Wink (hat and gloves), c. 1940s

April 13, 2015, 6:54 pm
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Its getting so lovely and fresh here in the mornings, so close to Winter that I'm getting excited about wearing knits again.

Looking through my knitting books for inspiration, I came across this sweet little hat and gloves combo - I hope you like it! It's from Woman's World Knitting, circa 1940s.

free vintage knitting patterns 1940s hat gloves






























It's knit using fingering weight yarn and  3.75mm DPNs for the hat, and 2.75mm DPNs for the gloves. Enjoy!




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Love at first sight, free vintage knitting pattern c. 1940s

April 30, 2015, 10:35 pm
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Winter's nearly here in Australia, so it's time to start looking for toasty jumpers and sweaters! I loved the adorable neck and waist ribbon on this jumper and wanted to share the pattern with you.

The stretchy rib and cables mean that it will fit a variety of sizes, and the sleeves have a nice puffed forties look which is really flattering.
1940s free vintage knitting pattern jumper




























I hope you like it too!

To fit 32-36 inch bust (stretchy)
Yarn: fingering weight
Needles: 3.25mm and 2.75mm

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FO: 1940s Wide Leg Trousers (EvaDress/Simplicity 3322)

May 8, 2015, 10:44 pm
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This year seems to be the Year of the Pants, which can't be a bad thing.

I feel like I'm taking baby steps towards tackling my dream project - perfect vintage jeans - and these wide leg trousers are just one step down that road.






























The pattern is EvaDress 3322, which is a reproduction of Simplicity 3322 circa 1940, and I used navy gaberdine fabric from Spotlight.































Overall, I'm really happy with how these came out BUT be warned, I made four muslins before I got the fit right.

I'm about a 35 inch waist and 48 inch hips, and the pattern had so much ease in the trousers that I used a size 40 (to fit 34 waist and 43 hip).

I was also expecting them to be rather long in the crotch but they were actually quite short and needed adjusting.






























MODS:

  • used a back-zipper instead of side buttons
  • lengthened the total crotch depth by 3/4 inch front and back
  • added extra seam allowance to back seam for zip
  • took in at the waist by half an inch
  • removed excess width on the back of the legs, about an inch
  • shortened legs by an inch
You can see a close up of the back zipper here - oh dear, I didnt realise I was covered in cat hair, sorry!






























These are supremely comfortable pants, and I can't wait to make the full overalls version from the packet as well.

evadress 3322 simplicity 3322 wide leg trousers swing pants 1940s plus size large





























Well, now I have the basis for my jeans sorted - time to get started, right?





























OUTFIT
  • Blouse - made by me, Smooth Sailing in Denyse Schmidt Florence
  • Saddle Shoes - Bass Enfield
  • Bakelite earrings and bracelets - Etsy
  • Bakelite airplane brooch - made by me
  • Lipstick - Nars Velvet Matte in Red Square
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Free Knitting Pattern: A 1930's Bertha Blouse from Vogue Knitting

May 14, 2015, 5:16 pm
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A Bertha Blouse doesn't sound very attractive - but it looks so easy to knit and wear!

free vintage knitting patterns 1930s vogue knitting magazine art deco

This simple pattern comes from Vogue's 4th Book of Knitting and Crochet (1936), and is suggested to be knit in white, with two green stripes.

If you were looking for a good place to start with using a vintage knitting pattern, this might be just the ticket!

To fit: 36 inch bust
Needles: 2.75mm
Yarn: Fingering weight. A light fingering weight chenille was used in the original, but a cotton or linen yarn would be a good substitute.

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Finished: Welcome to Jeansville

May 16, 2015, 12:19 am
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Did I mention the jeans of my dreams earlier?
1940s 1950s jeans vintage denim womans mexican tourist coat jacket





























Well, they've finally happened.

1940s 1950s jeans vintage denim womans mexican tourist coat jacket





























I've been dreaming of 1940's wide leg jeans for a VERY long time, but honestly, I've been too scared to try and make them.

1940s 1950s jeans vintage denim womans mexican tourist coat jacket





























I mean, the fitting, the top stitching - it all seemed like so much effort to get wrong! And denim isn't the cheapest fabric to mess up with either. What if I made a mistake?

But here I am over the moon in Jeansville, and they worked out.

I relied heavily on Simplicity 4990 for inspiration (boy's jeans from 1954), and modified the EvaDress Wide Leg Trousers 3322.
Pattern photo credit: DaisyandErma on Etsy






























To figure out how wide I wanted the legs, I compared them to some Freddies of Pinewood jeans in my closet - then pinched out the excess width from the EvaDress trouser pattern down the centre. I believe I took a total of 6 inches excess width out of each leg to narrow the fit.






























The denim is just a basic navy from Lincraft, but it has an ever so slight stretch. A back zipper instead of a front zipper of course!






























MODS;

  • Pinched out 3 inches width from the centre of trousers, front and back, to reduce the excess width
  • Folded pants pocket
  • 1950s pattern said to use snaps on the pockets - I used buttons and button holes






























If I can pass on one piece of advice I've learnt about perfecting pants this year, it's don't put them off. Making 4-5 muslins in the past month has been painful (and not cheap) but the end product has been totally worth it.

xxx

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Free Pattern: A Men's Pullover in Diamond Pattern, c. 1935

May 21, 2015, 8:10 pm
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Jakk has such great taste when it comes to clothes - I just wish I was a faster knitter so I could make her everything she wants.

Case in point - we were watching Miss Marple: The Blue Geranium the other night and Jakk mentioned how much she loved the vest George Pritchard was wearing.









 





















I had a flick through some old Stitchcraft Magazines, and viola, The Diamond Pullover. 
(The Blue Geranium was written in 1932-1933, and this pattern is from Stitchcraft November 1935 - pretty close).





























The pattern also recommends a colourway of bottle green and beige! The instructions come in both written and charted, and I hope you enjoy it.

To fit: 36-38 inch chest
Needles: 2.75mm and 3.75mm
Yarn: Fingering





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Curvy Month 2015 - coming soon!

June 11, 2015, 5:56 pm
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That's right gang - Curvy month is back with a vengeance from 1 July 2015!
A month of knitting patterns specially selected  for bust sizes 36 inches and greater.

Curvy Month has been running since 2012, and it's been a labour of love finding fashionable knitting patterns to share with the 'curvy size' knitters out there.

Keep your eyes peeled for some novelty knits, art-deco delights and killer fifties fashion...

xxx
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Sewing, Knitting and Dancing!

June 28, 2015, 8:33 pm
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You may or may not have been asking where I've been...






























Apologies for the silence at the moment - a combination of a heavy workload, dancing events plus a few sewing projects going awry meant there wasn't much to show right now.

Here's a quick snapshot of what I have been up to, before Curvy Month begins.

SEWING

















Sneaky-peek at some jeans I made on the weekend - using my favorite pattern, EvaDress 3322 Swing Trousers. I like these even better that the last pair!

As you can tell, they're heavily modified and I'll have a post coming up next week showing how to add these pockets AND remove a front dart from trousers.


KNITTING
Brrrr... It's so cold here in Sydney at the moment.
It's not until the coldest day in Winter that you realise how few thick knits you own!

I've been knitting the cardigan from Cosy for Cold Days, a pattern from Curvy Month back in 2013.


















It's a quick knit too!

KnitPicks had Wool of the Andes on sale last month so I snapped up the most delicious black/brown, called Bittersweet. The colour is that perfect shade which should compliment most other colours.





















AND DANCING
It's not often I post photos of us dancing but... here we are, doing the Stroll to Si Cranstoun last month at the Manhattan SuperBowl.

Photo Credit: Manhattan Superbowl



 


















(If you've ever wanted to learn The Stroll, Lisa FreemontStreet has a great video that breaks it down here). Si Cranstoun is great, check him out if he's ever in your town.

And that's it!

Well, get yourselves all buckled in as Curvy Month is about to begin!
xxx

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Curvy Month Pattern One: Knitted ArtDeco Blouse, c. 1936

June 30, 2015, 5:16 pm
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Welcome to Curvy Month - a whole month devoted to outsize (greater than 34" bust) vintage knitting patterns.

After searching through my collection I'm ready to offer up another 10 stylish offerings that I hope you'll enjoy.

Today's knitting pattern comes from Vogue's 4th Book of Knitting and Crochet circa 1936, called Blouse for Older Woman.

plus size knitting pattern free 1930s

free vintage knitting pattern plus size 1930s vogue




















For a matronly design, I actually think this is quite stylish! I really like the wrap collar style, with side tie. This Vogue magazine is filled with great styles, I can't wait to share more with you this year.

To fit: 38 inch bust
Needles: 2.25mm and 3mm
Yarn: Fingering weight.



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Curvy Month Pattern Two: Novelty Golden Barley Jumper, c. 1950s

July 3, 2015, 11:07 pm
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'So new, so different, so pretty! Our simple sky-blue jersey is embroidered with ripe ears of golden barley...'

This sweet little jumper comes from Weldon's Ladies Journal, and would be a fun novelty knit to pair with pedal pushers!

free knitting pattern 1950s large xl plus size novelty





























This jumper is knit first (long or short sleeves) and the barley embroidered on later. On the upside, this would be a really easy design to embroider on any plain jumper for a taste of novelty (if you didn't want to knit your own).

To fit: 31-33 inch, 33-35 inch and 35-37 inch busts
Needles: 3.25mm and 2.75mm
Yarn: Fingering

As per always, right click on the image and open in a new tab to see full size versions for printing.



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FO: 1940s Jeans (from EvaDress 3322 Wide Leg Trousers)

July 4, 2015, 7:41 pm
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I freakin' love these jeans, and I love how versatile the EvaDress Wide Leg Trouser pattern is!
































And here's the original pattern again:


















Isn't it hard to believe they're the same design?
I've been wearing these jeans for three days straight so I guess I better make another pair before I wear these out.

I just wanted a pair of jeans that were fairly fitted around the hips, didn't give me camel-toe (hello Freddies, looking at you) and I could comfortably sit down in.
Basically a pair of jeans I could wear on the plane to the USA next year.

These jeans tick all those boxes! :)

Tired face sorry! Been working 8 days straight






























The fabric was a medium weight denim (not as heavy as rigid denim), and I used a beige top-stitch thread instead of golden-yellow.

This time around, I fixed up all the little things I didn't like in my last pair, including:

  • Raising the crotch depth about half an inch (they were a fraction too low last time)
  • Narrowing the legs and hips a bit more
  • Removing the front waist dart (tutorial coming very soon)
  • Changing the pockets































I did have some major top stitching issues with this denim, my sewing machine kept chewing up the top-stitch thread no matter what tension I used.
A lot of ripping out and sewing again, but I got there in the end.

I won't mention the pair I made just before these, where I forgot to allow for ease and made them too tight (photos on Facebook if you want to see my brain fail). All that beautiful top stitching gone to waste.

1940s fairisle jumper retrospec'd clothing jeans denim womans plus size freddies of pinewood





























I still can't believe I made jeans that look 'proper', i.e. like Freddies of Pinewood, not home-sewn!
I may not look excited in the photos, but I'm jumping around on the inside, let me tell you.
(I just look tired as I have to work 19 days straight to get some projects rolled out at work).






























And what's next on the cards? Here's a sneak peek, and I hope you've been enjoying the Curvy Month knitting patterns so far...




















Outfit 1 Details

  • Cowboy Shirt - sewn by me, using Smooth Sailing
  • Cowboy Brooch - Charcoal Designs
  • Chartreuse Cardigan - thrifted
  • Bakelite Bracelets and Earrings - Etsy
  • Shoes - Converse Chuck Taylors
Outfit 2 Details
  • 1940s Repro Jumper - Retrospec'd Clothing
  • 1940s 'B' Lucite Brooch - Etsy
  • Saddle Shoes - Bass Enfield, Amazon
  • Telephone Cord Bag - Belmont Vintage, Chicago
  • Jewellery - Etsy
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Curvy Month Pattern Three: Silver Dew Sweater c. 1950s

July 6, 2015, 6:51 pm
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This nifty 1950's number has a lot going for it - plenty of sizes, a cute yoke and collar plus a really interesting texture.

The ribbed waist also helps to keep this a trim fit.






































I could see this pattern working really well as a 1940s knit too, in the right colour way. Don't be put off by the thin yarn - the body is knit up quickly on 4mm needles.

Size: 32-41 inches
Needles: 2.75mm and 4mm needles
Yarn: light fingering
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Curvy Month Pattern Four: An Interesting Grey Woollen, c. 1940s

July 10, 2015, 3:45 pm
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I had to add interesting to this pattern description - because it is! This lovely pattern comes from 'Summer Knitting', circa early 1940s.






























Who doesn't love those full 1940's sleeve heads and the easy (yet attractive) stripe pattern in garter stitch?
This one's already in my queue - and I reckon it would smashing with the garter stripes knitted in a contrasting colour.

To fit: 34 and 38 inch busts.
Yarn: Fingering weight
Needles: 3.75mm and 2.75mm




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Quick Tutorial: How to remove the front darts in trouser patterns (to make jeans)

July 11, 2015, 4:15 pm
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It's very simple to remove a dart from an existing trouser or pants pattern when you're making jeans.

For example - the EvaDress 1940s Swing Trousers 3322:

Darted at the waist:





















 . 





 


 The same pattern, without waist darts:






























1. To remove the darts, trace around your pattern piece (we never cut the original, right?)






























2. Redraw the dart lines down to the side edge of the pattern piece, somewhere near the knee area. Keep the same start points on the waist edge.






























3. Fold the new dart closed.






























4. Retrace your new pattern piece, and re-draw the waist so it's even (you can see the faint blue line of where the previous folded piece was).






























And that's it! Front darts gone and your new pants pattern is ready to be made into jeans.

I hope this tutorial helps if anyone was wondering how to do it :)

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Curvy Month Pattern Five: Fisherman-Knit Cardigan, c. 1950s

July 16, 2015, 3:50 pm
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Doesn't this cardigan look so warm and squishy?
It's Bestway A2738, from approx 1950.

1950s cardigan knitting pattern bestway a2738



Even better, it's knit in bulky yarn, so it's a super quick knit.

To Fit:32-34 in, and 35-37 in busts
Yarn: Bulky
Needles: 3.75mm, 3.25mm and 3mm.





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FO: 1950s Inspired Dungarees (the Gertie Jeans strike again!)

July 26, 2015, 2:41 am
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Oh Gertie Jeans, you're such a great pattern now that you fit properly - and I love your versatility.

1950s overalls dungarees womans plus size large denim vintage jeans





























The pattern (Butterick 5895) was so easy to modinto dungarees/overalls - just add a bib front and straps. Viola!


bakelite bracelets bangles lucite handbag wicker 1950s vintage





























As you can probably tell, I did change the pockets to slant pockets with a double line of top-stitching like the EvaDress jeans I made - it's how Freddies make theirs and I think it looks neat.






























The bib-front was pretty much copied off the Freddies of Pinewood Dungaree Dolls, but with the addition of some side bust darts.

I used moderately stretchy denim, and a back zipper (like normal) so they're comfortable plus easy to get in and out of.

cement flamingo 1950s kitsch garden





























Would I make these again? Hmm, probably not, as one pair of fitted dungarees is probably enough.

They are definitely a winner in my book though (I wore them to the Rock and Roll Markets in Sydney today) and I know I'll wear them a lot.
I'm going to make them up again as just plain jeans.






























Just goes to show - spend the time to tweak a pattern to fit and you'll be rewarded with a lot of options.

Outfit:
  • Sunglasses - Modcloth
  • 1950s Lucite and Wicker handbag - eBay
  • 1950s Scarf - op-shop
  • Bakelite Bangles - Etsy
  • 1940s Cowboy Brooch - Etsy
  •  

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Curvy Month Pattern Six: Carnaval Cardigan, c.1950s

July 28, 2015, 1:19 am
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I really love this cardigan (from Patons Style Vol.16) - a peter-pan collar plus a two-tone front?
Perfection!

The model looks a little like Grace Kelly don't you think?






























To fit: 32-33 in, 34-35in and 36-37in busts
Yarn: fingering weight
Needles: 3.25mm and 2.75mm



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