Quantcast
Channel: Subversive Femme
Viewing all 113 articles
Browse latest View live

Curvy Month Seven: Regal Jumper, c. 1940s

$
0
0
I have a hunch that this would be a really fun knit - the bell texture stitch looks really interesting.
This pattern comes from Twin-Prufe, but I can't remember which one sorry!






























The button closure on the neck is super sweet too.
This jumper has the options for long and short sleeves.

To fit: 38-40 in bust
Yarn: Fingering weight
Needles: 3.25mm and 2.75mm


Curvy Month Pattern Eight: Sirdar No. 1496, a ladies jumper c.1940s/50s

$
0
0
This pattern looks like a great transitional piece between seasons - not to mention a great transition between 1940s and 1950s styling.






































This fitted cardigan also has a subtle textured stripe down the fronts.

To fit: 40/42/44 inch busts
Yarn: Fingering weight
Needles: 3.25mm and 4mm.





Curvy Month Pattern 9: A Fine Knit Jumper in Three Sizes, c. 1950s

$
0
0
Apologies for the delay lovelies! Curvy Month has run slightly over due to my hectic workload - but the last pattern will published tomorrow.

Today's pattern is from Lavenda, and is knit in a fine 2-ply yarn (heaven to wear, hell to knit).
It has a delicate lace pattern down the jumper front and sleeves, and a round neckline.































To fit: 34, 36 and 38 inch busts
Yarn: light fingering
Needles: 3mm and 2.25mm



Curvy Month Pattern 10: Juana, from High Fashion Knits (1950s)

$
0
0
Well, it's end of Curvy Month and I hope you've enjoyed this year's patterns.
I've saved this one to the end, for no reason other than I love the model!

This pattern is called Juana, and comes from High Fashion Knits c. 1953. It's a beautiful boat-necked top, with a braid trim around the top.

And gee I'd kill for her bird hat and gloves!


To Fit: 32-34-36-38 inch busts
Yarn: light fingering (3ply)
Needles: 3mm




Free Pattern: Neckline Embroidery Motifs from Simplicity 7307, c. 1947

$
0
0
Do you ever obsess about owning a pattern, even if you'll probably never use it?

free embroidery pattern 1940s vintage simplicity 7307 rock and roll music notes




















I bought Simlicity 7307 purely for the two motifs below - arn't they divine?   I would love to use them on a blouse or t-shirt.

































I'll probably never end up using them, but a girl can dream right?
And since they're so pretty darn awesome, I thought you guys might like a copy as well.

To print, just right click and open the image in a new tab. (You might need to play with the resizing to make sure it will fit your oen garmets).





 
I hope you enjoy them!

Western Plains Zoo, Dubbo

$
0
0
Hi gang!

I'm afraid I'm not able to post as often as I would like at the moment as my work is taking all of my mental energy - sorry for the scarcity of posts!

We did manage to sneak away recently to the Western Plain Zoo in Dubbo (about 6 hours away from Sydney) with group of Sydney Dykes on Bikes. Talk about a fun-filled weekend of animals and wine-drinking!








































You can stay onsite in the fancy Savannah cabins, right near the giraffe enclosure - I would definitely recommend it. You can see them galloping around in the morning mist - it's pretty special.

 

Yes, our friends are nuts.



Sometimes you just need to get away, and this surely is the place to do it.

Rock and Roll Markets and a sneaky hat fix.

$
0
0
This month's Rock and Roll Markets was meant to be a vintage showcase, which meant frocking up (more than normal).

miss l fire betty white 1940s lucite wicker handbag rayon dress plus size xl large




























I wore a 1940's rayon day dress, with contrast collar and cuffs - it was pretty hot today and a good breathable choice. (I can't wear the big skirts and petticoats when I'm dancing, they make me feel like a hot and sweaty meringue).
 




























Obligatory brooch close up of my 1940's carved lucite bow - I'm so worried about losing one of the bakelite berry balls as they're still on the original string.






























'Frocking up' (to me) means wearing a hat, but I suffer from a lack of hats in my life. They're hard to dance in, and I don't trust that I can pick ones that suit my face.

But what of the sneaky hat fix?
I found the 1950s straw number for super cheap at a sale, and couldn't pass up on a bargain - the only problem is that it was very damaged around the brim.





























It's been sitting with my other hats for over a year, waiting for a better life and now seemed like a good time.

I carefully steamed some velvet in ribbon in half and clipped it to the brim.





























Run some gather stitches around the edges (to fit the ribbon the curve better) and then stitched down.


Viola! A new life for an old hat.

It wouldn't be the Rock and Roll Markets without some rock and roll dancing - I didn't realise Jakk was taking sneaky pictures until I got home!










And Strollin with some of the Sydney vintage crew, of course...






 
Another good weekend over, and I'm looking forward to the next markets in November.


Outfit:
Shoes - Miss L Fire Betty
Dress - 1940's Rayon, Etsy
Lucite Brooch - eBay
Wicker and Lucite Bag - eBay
Bakelite Bangles - Etsy
Sunglasses - Random shop in Long Beach, CA

Free Knitting Pattern: Smart Striped Jumper from Stitchcraft July-Aug 1948

$
0
0
A By-Request pattern for Sandflies on Ravelry (yep, I do take requests!) who was after this particular pattern from StitchCraft Magazine, July-August 1948.

This cute little cardigan has some great matched stripes going on - I love the way they wrap around the chest and across the upper arms.

The colour combination is pretty fantastic too!

stitchcraft magazine free knitting pattern 1940s 1950s





























A cute collar matches well with the multitude of buttons down the front - something was very flashy after the war-standards of minimal buttons a few years ago.

To fit: 32-34 inch bust
Yarn: fingering
Needles: 2.75mm and 3.25mm







FO: Majorette Border Print Dress (Vogue 8789, c.1957)

$
0
0
Have you ever had fabric that was crying out to be sewn up?
This Majorette fabric haunted me from the shelf in my sewing room until I did something with it.

miss l fire harlow 1950s novelty print dress green majorette plus xl bakelite





























The pattern I eventually went with was Vogue 8789 view A - only because I wanted to use part of the border print across the neckline.





















I'll be honest, I wasn't very happy with the fit of this (similar to when I made View B last year) - it took a lot of tweaking to get the fit right. I don't think I would use this pattern again.






























I am really happy with how the belt turned out though - using a proper belt kit from the 60s.






























MODS:
  • Small sway-back adjustment
  • Deepened the darts on the back neck
  • Shortened the under bust darts to avoid pointy boob
  • Added darts on the front neckline - there's no way this thing was laying flat!
  • Hand pleated skirt instead of gathers
  • Bust 16, graded out to 20 waist.
 Probably the most annoying mod was having to rework the neckline multiple times to get it to lay flat. Not sure how it was ever supposed to look like the pattern image!






























Overall, I can't wait to wear this during summer! Green is one of my favourite colours and it's really easy to match bakelite to the colours in dress :).






























Outfit:
Dress - Vogue 8789
Bakelite bangles - Etsy
Bamboo Bag - Southern Antiques Centre
Brooch - eBay
Shoes - Miss L Fire Harlow

Camperdown Cruise 2015

$
0
0
Another Cruise over, and once again we had a ball (thanks Arthur!).





















































This year we were lucky enough to share a house in Camperdown with some friends - which means shenanigans of course!































Bruce and Mel are dance teachers (SwingOut Sydney) which also meant I got to inflict my beginner dance moves (as a lead) on them and not worry too much.

























We didn't do much site-seeing this year (only a quick shopping trip to Warrnambool) but no visit to Camperdown is complete without a drive to the top of Mount Leura to see the view across the shire.


























We got there just as the weather turned and it was freezing and blowing a gale!





























But of course, everyone comes for the bands and music...
































And my treasures that I found this year?
How about this little piece of Australiana - a crocheted koala bottle holder, complete with little claws!





























I didn't find as much as last year - my favourite dealers weren't here for some reason - but I did get some amazing finds from the two op-shops (thrift stores) in town.


Remix shoes, an atomic bamboo fruit basket, straw tiki lamp (for my bedroom), vintage fabric and zips, and heaps of sewing patterns.

My favourite finds do have to be the fabric - a 1940s burgundy rayon crepe, and a 1950s atomic polished cotton (5m and 6m lengths, crazy!). On the way home we stopped into Colac and I found the Sunbeam bias binding too, still in their packets.

I hope you crazy cats had a great weekend too!

Free Pattern: Pagliacci Jumper in two sizes, Patons Knitting Book No. 274 (c. 1950s)

$
0
0
Hi guys!

I just realised I hadn't shared a pattern with you in ages - my apologies.

My fingers have been itching for some textured knits lately, and this jumper from Patons No.274 looks deliciously textured!

free vintage knitting pattern 1950s 1940s cable jumper sweater





























Even better, it's sized for 32-33 inch busts and 35-36 inch busts.
Options for long sleeves are also included.

I hope you enjoy it!

Needles: 3.25mm and 2.75mm
Yarn: Fingering weight

Free Knitting Pattern: 1940's Novelty Seahorse Jacket (Home Budget 1948)

$
0
0
I can't get over how amazing this cardigan-jacket is!

free vintage knitting patterns 1940s cardigan australian cotton sweater home budget 1948 donna reed

Seahorses!
Seahorses with sequin bubbles coming out of their mouths!


I would wear this everyday until it fell apart. The details are fabulous:
- wavy edge trim
- strong 1940's shoulders
- nipped waist

The lovely cover model is Donna Reed, and I love their colour combination of pale pink with green felt seahorses.

Australian Home Budget was very similar to Women's Weekly and this pattern is from May 1948.

To Fit: 34 and 36 inch busts
Yarn: Astor Duchess (fingering weight cotton)
Needles: 3.25mm or 3.75mm


A lace paneled cardigan, c. 1950s (Twinprufe Spring Lace Knitting Book 167)

$
0
0
Even though it's starting to heat up down here in the Southern Hemisphere, it doesnt mean you have to stop knitting.

At least, it didn't stop them 50 years ago~!
Twinprufe put out a series of Spring Knits, and this little cardigan looks adorable - even if it's knitted in a not-so-Spring-friendly wool.
At least it's a light fingering weight.

free vintage knitting patterns 1950s cardigan twinprufe spring subversive femme


The cardigan has some great lace panels down the body and sleeve, plus the button band and sleeves are hemmed - no stretching or ribbing to worry about.

To fit: 32-34-36 inch busts
Yarn: Light Fingering weight (3ply)
Needles: 2.75mm and 2mm (ouch)


FO: Beyond the Sea - 1950's novelty dress (Weigel's 1593)

$
0
0
If you're on Instagram, you might have seen me alluding to a seahorse dress I was making - well, it's finally finished!

 miss l fire luella vintage shoes wicker handbag 1950s 1960s novelty dress applique seahorse ocean sea fish border skirt

I was going to an end of year Christmas Party with a sea-theme and realised I had nothing to wear. Great reason to make something!

The pattern is Weigel's 1593 - an Australian pattern, I'm thinking early-mid 1950s?





The dress is made in stretch cotton sateen - not my favourite fabric, but I needed something with body to make the skirt sit properly. I didn't want to wear a petticoat as we'd be dancing and it's very hot with more layers.

The skirt is more of a 3/4 circle than a full circle - it even has cute little gathers for some interest.

The only mods I made were:

  • to remove the buttons down the front (cut on a fold), 
  • do a Full Bust Adjustment
  • add some width to the waist
  • lengthen the straps by about 1/3 of a inch.
I made the Xmas hair flower too!
But the main amount of time was on those darn seahorses - they took forever! I used the seahorse template from a free knitting pattern I posted last month - the Novelty Seahorse Jacket.

They're cut from felt, and hand-stitched around the hem (ten in all). They have diamantes for eyes, and the bubbles are large sequins with pearls in the centre. I repeated the bubbles on the bust for symmetry.



To get the bubble lines the same every time, I used a template to repeat the shape for each seahorse.

Would I make this again?
The dress itself was very easy, so perhaps. I do have plans for a similar skirt involving lobsters. LOBSTERS.
But I need to recover from this dress first.





























Outfit:

  • Hairflower - made by me, Xmas flower from Spotlight
  • Shoes - Miss L Fire Luella
  • Pearl jewellery - my Nan's
  • 1960's wicker bag - found at a market.

One green bottle dress - my last project for 2015! (Pauline 51212 c. 1940s)

$
0
0
Happy holidays everyone! I hope you're keeping well.


Unfortunately my new job is eating up my spare time (meaning not much time time left for knitting and sewing) but I'm still beavering away - just more slowly.

My fingers were really itching to have a crack at one more outfit before 2015 finished... So let me introduce Pauline 51212!

This dress is the bee's knees!
It has so many details that I adore in 1940's patterns: gathers, shirring, bell sleeves and why have one button when you can have twelve?

plus size vintage 1940s sewing pattern cotton jersey 40s

Can I let you in on a little secret? This dress isn't a woven or even a rayon knit - it's cotton tshirt jersey from the Spotlight clearance section!

bakelite lucite brooch carved 1940s bamboo handbag rockabilly vintage sewing

I know!
I was directly inspired by the dress American Duchess made in cotton jersey (she has some great tips too), it's not really all that different from wool, silk or rayon jersey which was pretty common during the 1930s and 1940s.

miss l fire betty white review

I did modify the pattern a little bit, including:

  • Doing a Full Bust Adjustment and then easing the side dart back into the gathered fullness above the bust.
  • Adding width to the hips and waist
  • Adding width to the bicep (yep, even with stretch fabric they had tiny arms back then)
  • Interfacing under the buttons
  • Adding small shoulder pads
  • Turning the extra fullness from the sleeve heads into gathers
The best bit - no seam finishing or zips needed!

I haven't sewn knits for at least 10 years so this was a learning curve. I did remember to use a ball-point machine needle though!

I didn't bother with fancy woolly thread - but I did use a narrow faintly zig-zagged stitch on all the seams that would have stress. This will let the seams give a little bit but not snap. I double-stitched the waist as this would have the most stress.

The shirring across the stomach was my only drama - it kept coming loose and I had restitch it a couple of times with more anchor stitches.

The buttons and buckle are all vintage celluloid from my stash.


As for the pattern itself - well, the instructions were minimal (no seam allowance either but that's standard for Pauline Reliable Patterns). I pretty much just made it up as I went along and it came together quite easily.

The great thing about this was how forgiving the fabric is - you can easily take it in here or there, mess around it with and everything is ok. 

Would I make this again? I'm pretty sure I would - but with short sleeves. I'm not sure I'm a bell-sleeve kind of person.


Well, I hope you had an excellent 2015 and I'll see you shortly in 2016!
Much love, 
Bex


Outfit:
  • Shoes - Miss L Fire Betty (these go with everything!)
  • Vintage bamboo bag - eBay
  • Bakelite jewellery - Etsy
  • Carved lucite bird brooch - present from Jakk
  • Lipstick - Kat Von D 'Countess'



Free Knitting Pattern: Shirtwaist Dress from Vogue's 23rd Knitting Book (1940s)

$
0
0
I love knitted dresses so much - can you imagine the amount of time is must have taken to knit one? It takes me at least three months to make a jumper, I think a dress would be beyond my patience.

free vintage knitting pattern vogue 1940s red dress

This lovely burgundy shirtwaist dress comes from Vogue's 23rd Knitting Book - probably early-mid 1940s. It looks ever so stylish with the match hat and belt too!

The pattern is to fit a 34" bust and26" waist.
Requires fingering weight yarn on 3.25mm and 2.75mm needles.


FO: Salvador Dali Poodle Skirt

$
0
0
I've always loved the imagery of  Salvador Dali, and especially his collaboration with Schiaparelli in 1937 to produce the iconic lobster dress.
It was  actually Gerard Nerval who had the pet lobster, not Dali 
So here's my 1950's nod to Salvador and Schiaparelli!


My inspiration was the traditional felt poodle skirts with a dog on a leash like below.
Original for sale on Etsy at THEGIRLCANTHELPIT

I self-drafted a circle skirt out of stretch cotton sateen as I wanted a firm smooth finish that I could wear here in Australia - felt isn't ideal. The lobster is made from red felt though, and handstitched to the skirt (I also hand stitched his eye).


The chain is gold sequin trim - yep, handstitched that down as well!

Pattern Notes: When sewing a circle skirt - make sure you let it hang for a couple of days before hemming. Parts of the skirt will be on the bias, and it will drop.



I took the skirt (also called Pinchy) on it's first outing to the Sydney Rock and Roll Markets - and somehow managed to co-ordinate with my friend Nina perfectly.

vintage 1940s lobster brooch lucite brooch

And just to prove how much I love lobsters, here's one of my favourite vintage lucite brooches...

Would I make this again?
One lobster circle skirt is enough.... or is it? Maybe a circle skirt with a lot of lobsters dancing around the bottom? 

I think I had better stop now!


Happy Mardi Gras and Viva Las Vegas

$
0
0
Well, I know technically the Sydney Mardi Gras was last weekend - but it's taken me at least a week to recover.


This year's Mardi Gras season was really hectic - mainly because Dykes on Bikes featured so heavily in a few things - we even got interviewed for TV!
That's right, if you'd like to see yours truly being interviewed by Channel Ten you can watch our segment here...


But back to the Parade!
Jakk and I decided 'Vintage Western' was our theme this year, which meant some last minute sewing for me (and Jakk already having a complete outfit in her wardrobe to draw from).


Check out the Polly's my friend is wearing - she looks fab!




I whipped up my entire outfit in the week before Mardi Gras (except for the shirt).


The shirt pattern is Smooth Sailing (from Wearing History), the gaucho pants are modified EvaDress Swing Trousers, and the bolero is cut from the Smooth Sailing Pattern.

I used a vintage 1950s pattern for a cowboy shirt to sew the western pockets with hand-made arrowhead tacks. I was going to post a photo of the pattern, but then I found a tutorial on Colette which explains it so much better.


My hat was just a cheapie one from Spotlight, and I wrapped cord around the edges to make it look more authentic - boy, I'd love to get a real one!


As for shoes, well, I'm yet to find cowboy boot that fit my calves so Minnetonka moccasins it is. Can't wait to grab some more when I head to The States in a few weeks....

Wait, the USA! That's right cats - we're heading back for Viva Las Vegas!


And this year it's going to be massive! LA-Palm Springs-Vegas-Chicago-Boston-Seattle-Yellowstone National Park-Portland-Seattle-Hawaii.

I hope I get to see some new and familiar faces as Viva - make sure you say hi!
xx

Free vintage crochet pattern: 1940s Fantastic Frilled Hat

$
0
0
Hurrah for hats!!!
And hurrah for crocheting your own! This super cute hat pattern comes from F&K Hats, Bags and Mittens Volume 25, I'm thinking early 1940s?

free vintage knitting pattern crochet hat 1940s

It's made from a worsted weight yarn, and crocheted on a 3.5mm hook (Bone Size 4).
I hope you like it!

It's good to be home (Part 1 - Los Angeles, Palm Springs, Las Vegas)

$
0
0
Hello everyone, I'm finally back after 8 weeks! (What a trip!)
1940s hair style vintage hair ideas redhead forties

It's very strange to leave Sydney in summer weather and return in winter - but we're not complaining. I love the cold, and finally got to see some real snow on this trip.

I don't want to bore you all with my photos (a tonne are on my Instagram over here), but I'll share some snippets of my favourite places with you. This post is a bit outfit heavy, so I'll apologise now and promise there'll be more scenery photos coming in my next post.

Our trip started in Los Angeles and luckily no jet-lag this time! We did have a drama with our accommodation on AirBnb and had to do an emergency hotel switch, but once that was sorted it meant a visit to Hollywood to see some of our favourite actors on the strip.



And a trip to the largest flea market in California, The Rose Bowl (I found bakelite bangles, yay!).

I had people trying to buy my 1940's Mexican jacket off my back at the market
The Rose Bowl wasn't how I imagined it in my head (tonnes of cheap vintage treasures, waiting to be found) but we still had a good time.

We went dancing in Pasadena, and Jakk finally met her idol Lil' Mo, from Lil' Mo & The Dynaflows. (Lil Mo is a super-sweetie in real life)


Next up was Palm Springs. It's heaven in the desert, full of mid-century modern houses, vintage, and snow capped mountains. We stayed at Ruby Montana's Coral Sands Inn, and I would recommend her retro motel to anyone!


Unfortunately I only bought my 1930's knitted bathers with me (for Viva) so didn't make it in the pool.

Ruby's place is right in old Las Palmas, so it's very easy to walk around and see the beautiful 1950s houses of the rich and famous.


Elvis and Priscilla's honeymoon house
We also managed to check out Dazzles, one of the largest vintage jewellery dealers in the USA.


Look at all that bakelite and plastic!

San Jacinto is well worth the trip up the mountain, and it's such a different place to Palm Springs. The temperature is colder, there are trees and even some patches of snow. It's a great place to take a break from the heat.


Unfortunately we didn't know there were walking trails, otherwise we'd have come better prepared (a 1950s skirt and wedges isn't really the best outfit).


After Palm Springs, it was a day's drive across the desert to Las Vegas.
We took the slightly longer way through Yucca Valley as Jakk really wanted to see Joshua trees. I would recommend driving that way, it's only slightly longer and much less traffic than via San Bernadino.


Viva Las Vegas, as always, is pretty amazing. A whole weekend of vintage clothing and rockabilly music is just heaven.

This year we were lucky enough to have some of out best friends attending too, which meant shenanigans!

 
Boy I love those cocktail boots 

Jakk and I didn't buy many things this year at Viva, although I did go a bit nuts on the Atomic Swag t-shirts and bought 12!


Shout out to one of my favourite vintage dealers, DonnaLand Vintage Variety, I love you guys.


Besides shopping, we were also renewing acquaintances with people we only sadly get to see every few years.

Sylvain and Laurence (from Lost in the 50s) are lovely people, and looked fabulous every time we saw them.



And then there was Western Night, with Jen and Benny (from Reese's Vintage Pieces). How amazing are their ties?


The King and Queen of the Sydney rockabilly scene - Limpin' Jimmy and the Swingin' Kitten (Jimmy and Margie). OK, we see those guys all the time but it was extra special hanging with them in Vegas.


And then the infamous pool party.

I find it really hard to find vintage bathers that fit, so this time I wore vintage wool 1930s ones! So stretchy and only a little bit warm. (A bargain on eBay because they had a LOT of moth bites - cue hours of darning).


1930s knitted wool bathers viva las vegas pool party 19 hair ideas swimwear miss l fire tijuana

The definitely were not for swimming in though! On the upside, I didn't feel 'exposed' and they were surprisingly comfortable. 

I hand-knitted a matching belt, and teamed them with Miss L Fire Tijuana wedges. Hair was easy and tucked under a long floral scarf (period correct for the 1930s).

Jakk wore her 1950's cabana set - and looked adorable in my opinion.


After Vegas it was time to start our massive adventure with Chicago - but more about that in my next post!

xxx
Viewing all 113 articles
Browse latest View live